For as long as I can remember, I’ve been an equal opportunity eater. I’ll try anything once, and I regularly enjoy a huge variety of foods that run the gamut from quinoa and kale to bacon and Buffalo wings.
Since moving last year to California — land of sunshine and beautiful produce almost year-round — I find I’m increasingly eating a diet heavy on fresh, minimally processed foods. Still, I haven’t abandoned my diverse diet, including such treats as cheese, wine or chocolate.
But finding a restaurant that caters to an all-inclusive diet hasn’t always been easy. Dining out often means choosing between the extremes: Bacon Bonanza burger with the frat boys or tofu and sprouts with the yogis?
That kind of extreme eating is all around us. Even as chefs engage in a battle of one-upmanship to create the gut-busting creations we see on TV shows like “Man v. Food” or “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives,” consumers buzz about juice cleanses and detoxing. We go cold turkey on the latest food demon — carbs, fat, gluten, dairy, you name it — and binge on the latest “superfood” darling.
But there are some promising signs that both consumers and restaurants are starting to find a middle ground where healthful, flavorful and satisfying foods can peacefully coexist.
I recently had brunch at a local branch of six-unit True Food Kitchen, which features dishes in line with the healthful philosophies of wellness expert Dr. Andrew Weil, and I was struck by the harmony with which the chain married a commitment to health with the ability to treat oneself. Steak tacos were served alongside kale salad, and the selection of desserts and alcoholic beverages underscored the idea that healthful eating doesn’t have to be austere or punishing.
That chain is hardly alone. A number of restaurants are building their businesses on the refreshing idea that healthful foods and delicious foods can be one and the same. For evidence, look at Nation’s Restaurant News’ recent report on 50 “Breakout Brands,” in which a quarter of the concepts have healthful reputations. Among them are Seasons 52, Veggie Grill, Blue Lemon and Fresh to Order.
New research indicates that there’s a big opportunity at the intersection of health and flavor. The National Restaurant Association in its 2013 industry forecast noted that diners have a heightened interest in nutritional items when dining out. And a recent study by the Hudson Institute reported that among the quick-service and casual-dining chains surveyed, those that served lower-calorie offerings had stronger traffic trends than those that didn’t.
But as the industry capitalizes on this growing focus on health, I urge you, on behalf of omnivores everywhere, to avoid the all-or-nothing mentality of the prevailing food trends. There’s a vast group of potential customers in the middle who like vegetables but aren’t strict vegetarians, who eat pizza but also practice Pilates. We’re looking for places to eat where moderation is key, and where Brussels sprouts and burgers both take their rightful places at the table.
Contact Christi Ravneberg at [email protected].
