My mother used to say, “If you wore it before, wear it no more.”
She first dropped this wisdom on me back in the 1980s, when I wanted to wear a too-short miniskirt that resembled the micro-mini she had donned two decades earlier.
This philosophy — to not participate in redundant trends — came rushing back to me with the recent opening in Philadelphia of Juniper Commons, Kevin Sbraga’s ’80s-themed restaurant and bar. A throwback to the decade of excess, Sbraga’s menu features items such as grilled prime rib, shrimp cocktail, a tableside salad bar and retro drinks, under sections such as 80s Remix and Solid Gold Hits.
Like my mother, some bar experts advise against a repeat visit to trends of the past. Among them is David Wondrich, who, in the recent Esquire essay “The Misguided Return of the Crappy Drink,” makes a strong case for why he thinks there’s no need for a better melon ball or a palate-challenging version of a Long Island iced tea.
Today, with a large portion of adults having been there and done that, and likely reluctant to do it again, it’s not surprising this particular retro cocktail trend hasn’t totally taken off yet. But while many cocktail drinkers would rather stay sober than order a Long Island iced tea again, recent research from Technomic Inc. indicates that there may be at least one group of consumers who might interested: Millennials.
They may not be familiar with the drinks that Tom Cruise famously shook up in the movie “Cocktail,” right around the time they were born, but according to Technomic, Millennials are drinking more shots at home, which may make them more receptive to these retro drinks.
In addition to Sbraga, a number of other operators are bravely going back in time, trying to appeal to today’s drinkers by applying craft cocktail techniques and elevated ingredients to ’70s and ’80s favorites.
For example, at Bait Shop in Seattle, drinkers will find an array of craft cocktail-ified ’80s drinks, such as the Long Island Fizz, made with all five white liquors, lemon, egg whites and a splash of Coke, and the Singapore Sling, with gin, brandy, benedictine, orange curacao, pineapple and lime.
A few chains are also getting in on the trend. Bennigan’s recently added to its menu a Long Island Iced Tea with Jamison’s Irish Whiskey, and Genghis Grill has the Khan’s Kamikaze, featuring Tito’s Handmade Vodka, Chambord, lime juice and cranberry juice.
So which way should your operation go? Try to revisit the past or never go there again?
For restaurants that already have a craft cocktail program, adding a drink from a different decade using the same craft techniques and quality ingredients might make for a sensible line extension — or not. Those that don’t dabble in crafty drinks could easily consider one of these throwbacks as an opportunity to offer a special — or not.
While I don’t need to drink another Sex on the Beach — ever — the bottom line is, if you think your customers, Millennials or otherwise, would enjoy it, I say go ahead and try it. Just don’t tell my mother.
What other important consumer trends emerged over the past year? Join the conversation in the comments below.
