It’s Sunday brunch at Summer House Santa Monica in Chicago. A pair of tap handlesstick out behind the restaurant’s bakery counter. They pour not beer, but cold brew coffee. A sign touts La Colombe Pure Black “steeped for 16 hours,” Iced Latte “with silky foam” and Black & Tan — “the best of both worlds” — made by mixing the two. Each is served on the rocks in a tall glass with a straw and is priced at $5.99.
Cold brew a