Many wine lists are organized by grape variety—and generally the categories are those of such major international grapes as Cabernet, Merlot and Chardonnay. Wines that are not made primarily from these varieties fall into the category of “Other Whites” or “Other Reds,” as if they were second-class citizens. We would prefer to see menus list a category called “Signature Native Varieties” or a similar name.
Many exceptional wines are available from grape varieties that are famous mainly in their country of origin, even if they grow elsewhere. Tempranillo from Spain and Sangiovese from Italy are just two examples.
One of today’s exciting calling-card wines is Malbec, Argentina’s most important red varietal wine. Originally from Bordeaux, the Malbec has practically disappeared from there because Bordeaux’s climate is not ideal for the grape. The only other region in the world where Malbec is still popular is Cahors, in southwest France. But the warm, dry weather of Argentina’s Mendoza region has given Malbec a new lease on life. Malbec can be compared to an intense version of Merlot. It’s more tannic, but its black fruit flavors resemble those of Merlot.
Carmenère is another Bordeaux misfit; although it is a permissible grape variety there, Carmenère effectively disappeared from Bordeaux over 100 years ago. But it is becoming the signature red grape of Chile, where it is gaining rapidly in popularity, although Cabernet Sauvignon still rules there. Until the early 1990s, it seemed Carmenère had disappeared from the planet. Then, while trying to understand why some Chilean Merlot vines ripened several weeks earlier than others, ampelographers discovered Carmenère growing alongside Merlot, misidentified as Merlot.
The late-ripening Carmenère thrives in the Colchagua and Cachapoal valleys, Chilean regions with warmer climates and longer growing seasons. About 98 percent of the world’s Carmenère is in Chile. With flavors reminiscent of blueberries, it’s fruitier and slightly lighter-bodied than Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, which makes it a good companion for seafood and meaty fish as well as meat.
Cabernet Franc—the “other Cabernet”—is a signature variety of France’s Loire Valley, where it makes delightful, medium-bodied red wines such as Chinon, Bourgueil and Saumur-Champigny. You can find Cabernet Franc varietal wines in Washington State, and a few come from California and Long Island as well. What we particularly like about Cabernet Franc wines is that they tend to be less tannic and lighter-bodied than Cabernet Sauvignons, and therefore more versatile at the dinner table.
Spain’s highest-quality red variety, Tempranillo, is beginning to get some play in wines from other countries, such as Australia and Argentina, but most Tempranillo-based wines still come from Spain. Tempranillo can make dark, soft red wines or paler, vibrant aged wines, depending on the wine-making. Many of Spain’s classic Tempranillo-based wines are named for their region of production, such as Rioja or Ribera del Duero, rather than the grape variety, but increasingly the grape name is appearing on wine labels.
Italy has so many native varieties that many grapes are “signatures” but Sangiovese, Italy’s most-planted red variety, tops the list. It is the sole variety in Brunello di Montalcino and the main variety in Chianti, plus a major part of many elite “Super Tuscan” wines and inexpensive varietal bottlings. Piedmont’s Nebbiolo, the variety of Barolo and Barbaresco, is also important.
Barbera and Dolcetto, two native Italian varieties making easy-to-drink, versatile red wines from Piedmont, also fit nicely into the “signature red” category. Barbera is also growing successfully in Argentina, California and even in Mexico’s Baja Peninsula.
WINE OF THE WEEK 2003 Concha y Toro Terrunyo Carmenère (Chile) Concha y Toro’s upscale Terrunyo line features one of Chile’s best Carmenères. The 2003, 85 percent Carmenère with the remainder Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, has rich, ripe blueberry and chocolate aromas and flavors, soft tannins, and excellent depth. It complements seafood and fish as well as meat entrées. Wholesale price per case of 6, $121
South Africa boasts Pinotage as its signature red variety. A crossing between Pinot Noir and the Rhône Valley’s Cinsault, Pinotage wines can combine the cherry fruit of Pinot Noir with the earthiness of a Rhône wine. Even California has a signature red variety in Petite Sirah. Apparently a descendant of obscure French varieties, Petite Sirah has a cult following. Petite Sirah belies its name in that wines made from this variety are anything but petite; they are invariably dark-colored, massive, tannic wines.
Even just a few wines from these varieties can turn a “Signature Native Red Varieties” category into the most exciting section of a wine list.