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There’s plenty of pork shank and duck fat at trendy Pittsburgh restaurants (although not at vegan Onion Maiden), but vegetables are getting thoughtful treatment, too.
Chef Pete Tolman has made new fans of Detroit-style pizza at this popular spot in Smallman Galley, a restaurant incubator space in the Strip District.
Website: smallmangalley.org/our-restaurant-concepts/iron-born
Address: 54 21st St.
Phone number: 412-517-6100
Number of seats: 200
Entrée price range: $15-$18
Popular dishes: Red Pie with brick cheese, pepperoni, red top and 24-month Parmigiano; White Pie with garlic cream, caramelized onions, marinated cherry tomatoes, arugula and ricotta; Spicy Pie with hot sopressata, pepperoni, house banana peppers and Mike’s Hot Honey
What others say: “Tolman is introducing this style of pizza to Pittsburgh (though it’s been popular in Detroit since the 1940s), and it is something you should make a priority to try if you haven’t already done so.” — Hal B. Klein, Pittsburgh Magazine
Detroit Red Top Pie
The bar
This home for hearty, earthy sustenance is a linchpin of the Federal Galley, a new 5,000-square foot food hall conceived to service nearby commercial development on the city’s North Side.
Website: federalgalley.org
Address: 200 Children’s Way
Phone number: 412-517-6400
Number of seats: 200
Entrée price range: $16-$21
Popular dishes: Poutine with duck fat fries, Emerald Valley cheese curd and truffled beef gravy; veggie burger with black bean and soy tempeh patty, almond "queso," tomato jam and fall greens on a potato roll; suckling pork shank with daikon sauerkraut, carrot purée, brandied apple and spicy pecan
What others say: “One more vendor, Vincent Perri, former chef of Revel + Roost, Downtown, will staff the stall called Supper, a vegetable-centric restaurant that, despite the name, will be open all day. Look for squash soup, duck-fat fries, veggie burgers, sea bass and desserts like sweet potato soufflé.” — Melissa McCart, Pittsburgh Post-Gazette
Suckling pork
Dessert
Located at the site of one of the first indoor Chevrolet dealerships in the country, this upstart enterprise — by chef Kevin Sousa of Salt of the Earth, Union Pig and Chicken, and Station Street — goes big on local sourcing and local soul as suffused in Braddock, a downtrodden post-industrial town showing signs of creativity and verve.
Website: superiormotors15104.com
Address: 1211 Braddock Ave, Braddock, Pa.
Phone number: 412-271-1022
Number of seats: 90
Entrée price range: $18-$36
Popular dishes: Carrot, beef or tuna tartare with nori, kimchi, miso and katsuoboshi; pork with dashi-potato, Reggiano, gribiche and trout roe; venison with parsnip, coffee, pear and pistachio
What others say: “The main dining room is a grey study in poured concrete, with various levels creating a sense of movement. Snag one of the standard-height tables in the center of the room — make sure you get a seat that faces the dramatic flares coming from the Edgar Thomson Steel Works — and you’re set for a comfortable, lively evening.” — Hal B. Klein, Pittsburgh Magazine
Yuzu Tart
Bar
This idiosyncratic eatery with a logo featuring the font favored by the hard-rock band Iron Maiden inside a certain white tear-jerking vegetable describes itself, in all caps, as “A PUNK ROCK-FUELED, HEAVY METAL-SPAWNED FOOD PURVEYOR SPECIALIZING IN VEGETABLE-BASED ASIAN AND AMERICAN COMFORT FOOD.”
Website: onionmaiden.com
Address: 639 E. Warrington Ave.
Phone number: 412-586-7347
Number of seats: 35
Entrée price range: $3-$11
Popular dishes: Coffins: scallion pancake taco with five-spice jackfruit, enoki mushroom, cabbage, jalapeño, and kale; Munster Mash: sharp cashew cheese plate with chutney, apples, ‘killing yoke’ (made with almond milk, agar agar, tofu and other ingredients) deviled eggs, baguette and apples: Graves at Sea: loaded tater tots with house-made kimchi, soy caramel, nori, togarashi and scallions.
What others say: “Vegan restaurants seem to be popping up all over Pittsburgh nowadays, and even though we’re not vegan in the slightest, we have really been enjoying these new spots like Onion Maiden in Allentown. I’ve always thought it takes more creativity and skill to make restaurant-worthy vegan dishes than meat dishes, and Onion Maiden definitely gets this right.” — Angie, Discover the Burgh
Graves at Sea dish
Doughnuts
High drama of a restrained and tasteful kind informs this modernist new favorite destination for visitors and locals alike in the Fairmont hotel.
Website: fl2pgh.com
Address: 510 Market St.
Phone number: 412-773-8848
Number of seats: 157
Entrée price range: $14-$34
Popular dishes: Whole Laurel Hill trout with crispy skin and caper salsa verde; heritage rotisserie chicken with roasted garlic jus, mustard and herb salad; chickpea fricassée with tomato confit, garlic aïoli and ciabatta.
What others say: “The stunning space was designed by Barcelona-based Lázaro Rosa-Violán — it’s a gorgeous yet comfortable combination of gilded-age era influences and modern touches. But fl.2 is more than just a showpiece. It’s a must-go lunch and dinner destination, and not merely for Downtown diners looking to fill up.” — Hal B. Klein, Pittsburgh Magazine
Breakfast at fl.2
Octopus
