Asian cuisines are hot all over the country, as Dandan in Milwaukee and The Poke House in Fort Lauderdale, Fla., illustrate, but more telling are the subtle influences at restaurants like Sardella in St. Louis with its miso-ricotta ravioli, or the pineapple kimchi at Fire & Hops in Santa Fe. Even Ogie’s Trailer Park in Providence, R.I., uses Japanese panko breadcrumbs for its mac & cheese croquettes.
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