Food and restaurants have intrigued Missy Robbins since childhood. Before becoming executive chef at Spiaggia in Chicago, she attended Peter Kump’s New York Cooking School, which later became The Institute of Culinary Education. In New York she cooked with Wayne Nish at March Restaurant and Anne Rosenzweig at Arcadia and The Lobster Club. To further broaden her culinary experience, she spent six months in two kitchens in Northern Italy, where she developed her love for Italian food and culture.
Astint as chef de cuisine at New York’s SoHo Grand Hotel followed. She left her native East Coast for Chicago four years ago when the opportunity arose to work with Tony Mantuano at Spiaggia restaurant.
What do you remember about your early experiences as a restaurant customer?
We lived one and a half hours from New York, and my parents took my brother and me to great restaurants. I always loved being in the restaurants and ordering off the menu. They also took us to foreign countries. I remember what I ate when I was 12. I cooked a lot as a kid, starting at about 12.
Where was your first restaurant job?
It was at 1789 in Washington, D.C., outside of Georgetown during my senior year of college at Georgetown University. I loved it. The energy was so exciting to me. They taught me how to hold a knife, how to sauté and everything else. I said I’d give it a year, and now it’s 15 years later.
There are very few female executive chefs of major fine-dining restaurants. Did you set specific goals to get where you are today?
I don’t think it was happenstance. I picked places that were congenial and welcoming. I worked really hard and knew what I wanted to do. I also happen to get along with guys really well. I never thought I had less of a chance. You have to have the energy, the drive and the talent.
How well do men and women work together in the kitchen?
Men and women definitely work differently. You have different skill sets. I worked in only one kitchen where I was the only woman, at my first job. I have close to 40 percent women here. Tony [Mantuano] has had a woman chef for years. I enjoy a balanced kitchen. It’s great to have those differences.
How do you and Mantuano, who is operating partner, divide your duties?
I’m responsible for the day-to-day operations. He drives what the restaurant is about. At the end of the day, it’s not about the titles. I’ve gotten a lot of recognition since I’ve been here.
BIOGRAPHY Title: executive chef, Spiaggia, ChicagoBirth date: Feb. 21, 1971Hometown: North Haven, Conn.Education: Georgetown University, art history major; Peter Kump’s New York Cooking SchoolCareer highlights: living in and working at a restaurant in Italy for six months; getting a job at Spiaggia
What do you most like about your job?
I like getting immersed in the culinary world of Italy. Working with Tony has been an amazing education. He’s a mentor and a fantastic working partner. Spiaggia is a place where you can never get bored, between the restaurant, the cafe and private dining. You get to work with the best products possible and with incredible people.
Was coming to Spiaggia a major step up for your career?
I went from managing five people to close to 50 people now. I view being a manager and a chef as a continuous learning process.
How have you adjusted to relocating from New York to Chicago?
Everyone is pretty friendly here. I felt very welcomed when I moved here. The chef community is really tight and very supportive of one another. I’ve met a lot of great people.
What are some of your favorite ingredients to work with?
Porcini mushrooms, balsamic vinegars, white truffles in season, a lot of fish from Europe. Spring is fun with ramps and morels—green things instead of brown. Every day there are little surprises with new things. We spend a lot of time procuring. When the farmers markets start, I fill up the car two times a week till I can’t see out the windows.
It sounds like you don’t have to worry about food costs.
Our budget is not unlimited. We try to balance the luxury items with great local items, and the cafe can balance it out. It’s the best of both worlds.
You spent some time living in Italy. What attracted you to that country?
CHEF’S TIPS Finish cooking pasta in the sauce. Mix a little pasta cooking water in the sauce to marry the sauce with the pasta.
I grew up in an Italian neighborhood, and I was always fascinated about the food. I started reading about it. There is a real culture behind Italian cooking based on years and years of family and tradition. There’s always something new to learn.
Where have you traveled most recently, and where is your next overseas trip?
I went to Brazil last year, and I visit friends all over the [United States]. I like exploring new cultures and new food and meeting new people. I’m going to Turkey and Greece in August.
What do you do locally in your spare time?
I go to movies, eat out, go to museums, hang out with friends and family, explore the city and the different neighborhoods. I eat at other kinds of restaurants when I go out to eat and crave something different.
What are your long-term career goals?
I’m definitely interested in opening my own place one of these days. I think it’s a really exciting prospect to start something of your own from the ground up and get to see it grow from the beginning.