Commerce chef-owner Moore savors power of a high-end cooking suite

Some chefs utter the names of European-engineered cooking suites with the same esteem that auto enthusiasts have for imported luxury sedans. Indeed, a high-end suite, a collection of cooking equipment unified into a versatile and attractive whole, often has a comparably lofty price tag.

Harold Moore, chef and co-owner of Commerce, an eight-month-old, 90-seat restaurant in New York with a straightforward style of American fine dining, is one of those chefs. For him, a costly French

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