Michael LaDuke, senior executive chef at Red Lobster, grew up in upstate New York and has fond memories of getting local maple syrup and maple-flavored candy each spring.
While researching flavors to liven up the 680-unit seafood chain’s menu, LaDuke tapped into his past and created Maple-Glazed Salmon & Shrimp. The glaze, which contains soy sauce and diced tart cherries, also draws inspiration from the Pacific Northwest.
The $17.50 entrée, served with wild rice pilaf and asparagus, was introduced in July and is already a strong seller. It reflects new thinking LaDuke is bringing to the casual-dining chain, which is owned by Orlando, Fla.-based Darden Restaurants Inc.
“There is a lot of focus on moving the brand forward, on freshness, on new cuisine and on staying food-forward,” says LaDuke, who Red Lobster hired in 2005 from Walt Disney World’s Epcot Center, where he was executive chef.
La Duke tries to tap into ethnic tastes and new flavors and make them palatable to a broad audience. Cuisines he sees as hot include North African, which offers Moroccan flavors like roasted cinnamon and toasted cumin. He sees Greek food gaining ground as well.
“It is becoming a comfort food,” he says. “It used to be something of an adventure to go out and get souvlaki or baklava.”
RED LOBSTER HEADQUARTERS: Orlando, Fla.UNITS: 680; 651 in the United States and 29 in CanadaREGION: United States and CanadaPRICES: appetizers, $4.99 to $10.99; main courses, $9.99 to $27.99LATEST MENU ROLLOUT: Maple-Glazed Salmon & Shrimp, $17.50, introduced in JulyBEST SELLER: undisclosedSLOWEST SELLER: undisclosed
Currently, LaDuke is researching wood-grilling techniques.
“We know from our research that grilling is huge for our guests,” he says.
Red Lobster’s menu, which was revamped last fall, now features a stand-alone fresh-fish menu with up to eight species of fish based on local tastes and availability. Fish comes grilled, broiled, or blackened with Cajun spices. A separate section called “Chef’s Creations” includes Basil-Rubbed Fresh Fish with Langostino Lobster Alfredo, in full or half-size portions.
New appetizers include a Pan-Seared Crab Cake for $8.75 and Lobster Bisque, once a promotional item, for $4.99 a cup. LaDuke took one of two fried-shrimp dishes off the menu because he sees demand slowing for fried offerings.
Diners want to indulge, but also want options that seem more healthful, he says.
Accordingly, LaDuke wants to figure out how to shift indulgent from “big, creamy, heavy,” to “big bold flavors, maybe from other cultures, maybe from ours.” He calls the concept “new indulgence.”
He sees ethnic cuisine as a way to combine big tastes and health.
“Americans want to make smarter choices,” he says. “If you can go to a Japanese sushi bar and have a great sushi roll, some yakitori and grilled beef, you get a flavorful, cool, exciting experience, and it is pretty healthy.”
Concern about portion size is growing, he says.
“Guests are not looking for a lot of food on a plate,” he says. They are looking for a lot of flavor.”
He predicts more sharing, especially of tapas-style appetizers at the bar.
Fussy dishes are out, he says. He’s testing new desserts, including a warm apple cobbler to replace an apple pastry with a spun sugar decoration. LaDuke works with separate teams to develop the core menu and promotional items.
“We are very fortunate that Darden is willing to invest in an R&D team of this size and go after talent,” he says.
8trends for ’08 “NEW INDULGENCE” GREEK FOOD ASIAN PREPARATIONS NORTH AFRICAN TASTES GRILLING RIGHT-SIZED PORTIONS SHAREABLE APPETIZERS UNFUSSY DESSERTS FAD ABOUT TO FLOP? MOLECULAR GASTRONOMY. “It is kind of cool the first time you try it, but it has a limited audience. I don’t see that trend going anywhere beyond fine dining.”
LaDuke looks to food-centric cities like New York, Chicago and Los Angeles for trends.
“It’s about looking for where the great food is out there in the country, at how they make it great, and how we can capitalize on that,” he says.
Sometimes a quick jaunt to Miami’s South Beach provides inspiration.
“It is really about image there,” LaDuke says. “We get lots of good ideas.”
Company vendors provide information. Most tastings are done in restaurants with patrons. An annual menu satisfaction report looks at some 20 attributes for each menu item. To focus thinking, Red Lobster holds annual fall workshops at the Greystone campus of The Culinary Institute of America in St. Helena, Calif. Topics have included American cuisine, regional cuisine and fresh fish. Maui Luau Shrimp and Salmon, part of a promotion called American Seafood Adventure, was finalized at the Greystone campus. The grilled entrée has sweet and spicy notes with Thai and Vietnamese flavors, but is not as fiery as the authentic Thai chile sauce that inspired it.
“We looked at how to take this to a brand like ours that’s got such a strong American heritage, and not intimidate people,” LaDuke says. “It is a huge hit.”