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Korean cuisine crosses over to mainstream-menu appeal

Korean cuisine crosses over to mainstream-menu appeal

The elements are falling into place: charismatic young chefs, growing media interest and a substantial immigrant population. Add to these a strong presence at major food shows, coupled with a newly announced government initiative to put its cuisine in the world spotlight, and it’s clear that the foods and flavors of Korea are poised for crossover.

It’s breaking out. The last few decades have seen growing presence of Asian cuisines like Japanese and Thai, but Korean has been strangely missing in action. Only recently have there been stirrings of activity.

One of the prime movers has been the yogurt boomlet led by chains such as Pinkberry and Red Mango. Noted for its tart flavor profile and affinity for trendy ingredients like green tea and pomegranate, Korean yogurt is riding waves of interest in healthful, probiotic foods.

It helps that the stylish, new-age stores attract high-profile clientele ranging from Hollywood stars to first children Sasha and Malia Obama, and it helps even more that these chains have attracted high-profile investors and management. The ultimate potential remains to be seen; so far, most development has concentrated on areas with established Korean-American communities.

Korean fried-chicken chains are following a similar path, promising a lighter, crispier and purportedly more healthful product.

The strangely named BBQ Chicken, a stalwart in South Korea, has entered the market with signature chicken that’s prepared in olive oil; despite the name, there is no barbecue on offer, and the name is actually an acronym for Best of the Best Quality Chicken. It’s operating in New York and Los Angeles, as is Bon Chon, another Korean-based contender that promotes its prep technique and features chicken that is fried twice.

Single-unit Crisp has garnered rave reviews and a loyal following in Chicago, and Cheogajip, which translates as “mother-in-law’s home” and connotes high-quality comfort food, has 12 stores in Washington, D.C.

It’s appearing on mass-market menus. Mainstream operators have begun experimenting with Korean items, including kimchee, a classic pungent Korean side dish made of fermented veggies, such as cabbage, radishes or cucumbers.

The Counter, one of the hot new burger specialist chains, has featured an ahi Korean-barbecue burger topped with California kimchee, and Roy’s, the upscale Hawaiian-fusion chain, has offered on its menu a steak special with kimchee-and-edamame fried rice. Tap, a popular Atlanta gastropub, steps outside the box with a spicy Korean-cucumber salad.

It’s become a rule of thumb that the appetizer listing is a point of entry for unfamiliar ethnic foods, and it holds true at Yard House, where patrons can sample a grilled Korean-barbecue beef starter flavored with garlic, soy and brown sugar. Pei Wei Asian Diner breaks that rule by going right to the center of the plate with a Korean entrée spiked with Korean hot-pepper sauce and toasted sesame seeds.

It has strong advocates. Media-friendly spokespeople have become critical to the success of emerging cuisines, and Korean-American chefs are stepping into the spotlight. In Chicago, Bill Kim, former chef de cuisine at Charlie Trotter’s, has opened the highly touted Urban Belly, a noodle and dumpling joint with communal seating that has made him a media darling.

In New York City, David Chang has been building an empire of Momofuku Restaurants; his Momofuku Ko won a 2009 James Beard Foundation Award for best new restaurant.

Roy Choi has garnered a great deal of attention with his Kogi Korean BBQ Taco Truck, an unlikely marriage of Korean and Mexican cuisines that he runs in Los Angeles. Its dependence upon social media like Twitter and Facebook as primary promotion vehicles makes it the very model of post-modern menu marketing.

Looking ahead, we can expect Korean crossover to continue at a slow but steady pace. Watch for crowd pleasers like bibimbap, a hearty rice bowl, and Korean-style barbecue featuring kalbi, or short ribs, which happens to take the starring role in Kogi’s best-selling taco.

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