ON FOOD: Despite added glamour, the James Beard Awards remain an intimate, chef-driven affair

Celebrity chef Bobby Flay and I were dressed alike at the 18th annual James Beard Foundation awards—in tuxedos with straight silver ties instead of the more traditional bowties. Still, no one in the row of paparazzi lining the red carpet leading to Lincoln Center’s Avery Fisher Hall took a picture of me. I guess they could tell us apart, and knew Flay was co-hosting the awards with actress Kim Cattrall, one of the stars of “Sex and the City.”

The awards have come a long way when it

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