Spanish cookery will likely never threaten the primacy of the big three ethnic cuisines: Chinese, Italian and Mexican. There’s been no major wave of supporting immigration, and Spanish-Americans are simply not as numerous as other hyphenates like Mexican-Americans. What’s more, a political system that was closed for decades prevented a free-flowing culinary exchange. Consequently, Spanish cuisine has languished in the shadow of the Italian-food boom.
The good news, however, is there are signs of a growing recognition of the attractiveness and accessibility of Spanish food and wine. For example, the theme for The Culinary Institute of America’s annual Worlds of Flavor International Conference and Festival, held last November at the Greystone campus in St. Helena, Calif., was “Spain and the World Table,” and the results were eye-opening.
It’s not just about sci-fi chefs. While chef Ferran Adrià and his acolytes have made headlines with their modern ventures into the outer reaches of molecular gastronomy, their experiments are firmly rooted in tradition. Technique is a critical factor in both contemporary and classic Spanish cooking. While Adrià experiments with unusual techniques, more conventional chefs have elevated frying to the level of an art form. Unfettered by the dietary concerns of American consumers, Spanish chefs have made frying an indispensable part of their repertoire. They also make regular use of sous vide, a technique that’s come under fire from health department officials in New York, as an important means of ensuring superior flavor and texture on a consistent basis.
Although Adrià and his followers have embraced exotica like liquid nitrogen and calcium chloride, the elements basic to Spanish cuisine are readily approachable by corporate chefs and their clientele. Typical offerings may feature ham, Olives, raisins, piquillo peppers or rice. Sherry vinegar looms large and may cross over and become the next balsamic vinegar. Cheeses are important, too, and Manchego, Spain’s most famous cheese, has made an appearance in the mass market in a specialty sandwich at Claim Jumper.
It’s the sum of many parts. Historically, Spanish cuisine evolved to reflect diverse outside influences, notably from the Moors and the New World. In fact, peppers, chocolate and tomatoes, which are part and parcel of modern Spanish gastronomy, are native to the Americas. The Moors introduced rice, which became the foundation for paella, a dish that’s widely celebrated there but largely undiscovered here. It’s a shame that we haven’t explored its potential. Paella is a culinary chameleon that can suit a range of tastes and accommodate a range of ingredients. Seafood and chicken are often used, and there are also vegetarian variations. It’s an item that can be easy to prepare and that lends itself to a colorful, dramatic presentation.
There is a pragmatism and openness that characterizes Spanish cooking. Much has been made of the increasing emphasis on freshness and its impact on chain menu development. While Spanish chefs follow the calendar and use foods that are in season, they are not afraid to employ the highest-quality canned, jarred and frozen foods after the season ends. They also acknowledge the importance of producers and suppliers, who are viewed as invaluable links in the food chain and key participants in the culinary process.
It celebrates small bites. Nothing is more emblematic of Spain than tapas, appetizers that allow patrons to graze as they drink a glass of sherry or wine.
Tapas represent a culture of sharing, the same impulse that’s addressed by chain restaurants’ sampler platters. They’ve been slow to take off in the mass market in the United States, but the door to tapas may be opened by the enormous popularity of sushi. Like tapas, sushi features a reliance on small courses, lots of choices and eye-catching presentation.
They also share an emphasis on condiments. For sushi it is wasabi and soy sauce, while for tapas it’s romesco or perhaps sofrito. Romesco in particular has a lot to offer. A classic sauce made from tomatoes, peppers, onion, almonds and olive oil, it’s easy to use, easy to like and compatible with a range of applications.
It’s a cultural treasure. The culinary arts have taken their place in Spain alongside theater, music and dance as fundamental pleasures of life. Chefs are recognized as artists who work with taste, touch, smell and appearance. Simply put, Spanish gastronomy marries quality ingredients with imagination, a philosophy well within reach of corporate chefs.