American pies enjoy renaissance among artisan pizza cognoscenti

As American bakers got serious about Old World breads in the 1970s, customers who tasted them quickly turned away from the downy, soft slices shelved at home. Same for beer about a decade later: As craft brewers reintroduced drinkers to nearly forgotten darker, richer styles, thin lagers never looked paler or tasted blander.

Now a similar renaissance is happening with pizza. Though still recognized by the majority as a disc of crust, sauce and cheese delivered to the door, more