Fried softshell crab at Brennans of Houston
Fried soft-shell crab at Brennan's of Houston.

Restaurants ready for soft-shell crab season

Chefs develop new preparations for the delicacy as its season approaches

When Victor Scargle tasted his first soft-shell crab back in 1995, it was at the behest of some more senior chefs he was working with in a New York City seafood restaurant. Then a young, up-and-coming chef who was more familiar with the hard-shell crabs of his native West Coast, Scargle thought his new co-workers were pulling his leg when they told him to eat the whole crab, shell and all. But he took the bait and has been in love with the delicacy ever since.

“It was

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