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Hibiscus blossoms as a food, drink ingredient

Chefs attracted to hibiscus’ deep color and floral aroma


By PAMELA  PARSEGHIAN



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Chefs use hibiscus for its flavor, but it also has a healthful reputation.

(Nov. 16, 2009) Hibiscus has gained buzz recently for its healthful reputation and potential medicinal properties, but chefs long have prized the flower’s full flavor, deep red color and its heritage as an ingredient used around the globe.

“I’ve used it hundreds of times over the years,” says Joshua Skenes, the 29-year-old chef of Saison restaurant in San Francisco, who most recently offered a hibiscus granité. Before that he prepared a hibiscus-seasoned squab.

“Hibiscus is kind of tart and floral,” he says. “It goes well with the unctuous, meaty bird. It is a good contrast.” He included both dishes on eight-course tasting menus that sell for $70.

For the squab he seasons the bird with hibiscus salt that he makes by grinding equal amounts of sea salt and dried hibiscus leaves in a mortar and pestle. The floral salt also seasons a red fruit and vegetable salad that he teams with the bird.

The salad is composed of watermelon steeped in hibiscus tea as well as fresh wild huckleberries, red mountain spinach and caramelized chicory. For the tea he steeps dry leaves for about 15 minutes in water that is brought just to a simmer and is then removed from the heat. He strains out the leaves and sweetens the infusion slightly with local honey.

He turns that same infusion into the granité. Once cooled, he freezes it and just before service “forks” it by scraping the mass with a fork. He layers the granité with Muscat flavored sabayon and little strawberries macerated with Meyer lemon and Japanese sugar.

Michelin-star-winning chef Pierre Gagnaire may serve this “hibiscus jelly carousel” dessert at Twist, a restaurant he is scheduled to open next month at the CityCenter development in Las Vegas.

Michelin-star-winning French chef Pierre Gagnaire, who is scheduled to open Twist next month in Las Vegas at the Mandarin Oriental in CityCenter, served a “hibiscus jelly carousel” dessert at a press event where he offered possible items that may show up on the opening menu.

He poured hibiscus jelly on the base of the dish and topped it with a linzer cookie, white almond paste, preserved grapefruit, a crispy fig, black-currant paste and a tandoori apple cube. Gagnaire prepares the floral purple gel with grapes, lemon juice and hibiscus that he warmed over low heat in a bain-marie for four hours. His method develops a clear and deep color, he says, but the flavor doesn’t become too strong or acidic.

Twist will be Gagnaire’s first restaurant in the United States. At his Hong Kong restaurant Gagnaire recently offered a poached apple with hibiscus and pepper.

Silk Road restaurant at the Vdara, which is also scheduled to open next month in Las Vegas at CityCenter, plans to highlight a hibiscus cocktail named The Kiss of Pear-suasion, says chef Martin Heierling. For the drink Heierling places a candied hibiscus flower into a chilled flute, adds some sugar syrup that the flowers are packed in, as well as pear vodka, elder-flower liqueur and Champagne.

“We give it a very gentle stir” and garnish with a lemon peel, and the flower floats in the lower portion of the glass, making the drink easy to consume without the flower getting in the way.

For special events like New Year’s Day and Valentine’s Day, fondue-specialty chain The Melting Pot serves a Champagne-based cocktail with a whole candied hibiscus at the bottom of the glass.
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