By ROBIN LEE  ALLEN

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EXECUTIVE EDITOR

Robin Lee Allen

(Nov. 16, 2009) Last night my colleague Christi Ravneberg and I enjoyed dinner at Hillstone, formerly known as Houston’s, in Midtown Manhattan. I had a roasted butternut squash salad with goat cheese and macadamia nuts, perfect for a fall evening and delicious enough to be served at any of America’s finest restaurants.

And that’s my point.

Dining that’s fine is no longer relegated just to fine-dining restaurants. Gourmet burgers worthy of four-star environments can be found at the numerous “better-burger” fast-casual restaurants sprouting up across the country. The 200-unit Uno Chicago Grill casual-dining chain, for example, is offering for a limited time boneless beef short ribs with fresh pappardelle, kabocha pumpkin soup and pumpkin tiramisu. Even quick-service operators like McDonald’s and Burger King are herding Angus beef onto their menus.

The ubiquity of what we used to call “upscale” offerings is great news for consumers, but perhaps not so great for fine-dining operators. Coupled with the lingering economic downturn, such evolutionary changes have forced restaurateurs to rethink their businesses, value perception and place in the foodservice landscape.

At the same time, the number of value deals being offered at upscale chains and independents has grown exponentially in recent months, as has the number of up-scale operators that have repositioned their concepts for the new reality.

And last month the Distinguished Restaurants of North America, acknowledging relentless economic pressures, increasingly casual consumer preferences and the fact that distinguished restaurants exist in all segments, said it would broaden its membership beyond upscale eateries to include notable casual independents and even iconic quick-service operations.

The announcement was a vast departure from the original mission of the 19-year-old group, which was founded with the purpose of elevating the world of fine dining by marketing members who had met its set of exacting criteria.

But the world has changed since 1990. Rarely do time-strapped consumers sit for long, leisurely repasts these days. Those who do would often rather wear jeans than jackets, and since they can now find up-scale foods virtually everywhere, they are not sacrificing fine fare when they choose not to frequent fine-dining restaurants.

According to Technomic, fine-dining sales have fallen 16 percent in 2009 compared to 2008, and the Chicago-based foodservice consulting firm is projecting a further 9-percent decline in 2010.

And, clearly, DiRoNA executives have read the writing on the wall. “This is a complete repositioning of DiRoNA to meet the economic challenges,” said Bill Hyde, the group’s chairman. “We had to have a growth strategy.”

DiRoNA created new membership categories. “Timeless Traditional” will continue to include fine-dining establishments with dress codes and extensive beverage lists that have been open at least two years. “Creative Casual” will be open to restaurants that are at least 3-years old and boast a noteworthy cuisine and decor as well as a “smart, casual” dress code.

DiRoNA’s new “Legendary Landmark” category represents the most dramatic change for the group. That category will be open to restaurants—including fast feeders—that are at least 10 years old and are “deeply integrated into the cultural fabric of the region.” To qualify, the restaurants must have celebrated menu offerings, a unique atmosphere and media recognition. The category is the only one for which potential members will not have to pass an inspection; however, they must be nominated by existing DiRoNA members.

“‘Distinguished’ can apply to the little barbecue joint that has been there for 80 years or the best hamburger drive-in that has been known for consistency,” said Kurt Knowles, co-owner of several celebrated upscale restaurants, such as The Manor, Pleasantdale Château and Highlawn Pavilion in West Orange, N.J..

“Distinguished fine dining today doesn’t necessarily stand for white tablecloth like it used to,” he said. “It has been very diversified from that. There are some very fine operations without white tablecloths.”

To those who would point to such changes as signaling the death of fine dining, I would say that just the opposite is true. Fine dining has raised the bar on food, service and décor across all segments and, therefore, has become more accessible to more people in more venues. The operators who helped to bring that about that evolution wisely are reconsidering their white tablecloths and embracing this new reality.—rallen@nrn.com

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