Operators shine spotlight on sparkling wines

Determined not to let sky-high Champagne prices and consumer frugality take the air out of their bubbly business, some restaurant operators are guiding their guests to good, reasonably priced sparkling wines from less-heralded wine regions.

“Today you can walk into a store or into a restaurant and find a beer, a wine or a sparkling aperitif from any corner of the world,” said Todd J. Smith, wine director of Dosa, a new restaurant in San Francisco that showcases the exo