Potato gnocchi

Potato gnocchi

Fitler Dining Room, Philadelphia

Chef Robert Marzinsky says the key to good gnocchi is cooking the potato just right, so they don’t soak up too much flour.

“Potatoes have a really funny window between being not cooked enough and being overcooked,” he said.

He cooks Russet potatoes until they’re just past fork-tender and can be passed easily through a food mill. Once he passes them, he lets them dry on a towel at room temperature. Then he adds egg yolks, flour, butt

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