UNDER THE TOQUE: Citrin stays close to his roots with French-American fare

UNDER THE TOQUE: Citrin stays close to his roots with French-American fare

Santa Monica is a city that wears flipflops most of the time. Though urban, it has the soul of a beachside village. But when people here feel the need to put on their designer shoes and go out for some serious fine dining, they think of Mélisse.

Chef-owner Josiah Citrin says he was aiming for something “over the top” when he opened the restaurant in 1999. The tableware is silver. Ladies are offered little stools on which to put their purses. A generous amount of space sepa

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