Sorting out saffron

If you want to start an argument at an international gathering of chefs, just mention saffron and then stand back. The opinions will flow unabated.

During last fall’s Worlds of Flavor conference at The Culinary Institute of America’s St. Helena, Calif., campus, chefs from the saffron-producing nations of India, Iran and Spain traded barbs over which country produces the finest example of the world’s most expensive spice. Though passionate, the chiding was in good fun and educational f